The group or boarding style is combined with the choke, spike, shock collar or treat method and then applied with the experience of a dog trainer for average results.

This system can be duplicated by anyone in a matter of minutes, simply by going to a pet store and watching someone using it with the five basic commands for about 5-10 minutes. This amateur system of training is very easy to teach and apply, practically anyone can do it. The end result from this system is a dog owner that has a limited amount of control over their dog when they're off leash.

The other schools system of training, obviously doesn't take much time, knowledge, skills or experience to master.

The expert style is combined with the voice control method and then implemented by a Master Trainer with 42+ years of experience for spectacular results.

This state of the art system has taken over 42+ years of professional experience for the Master Trainer to develop the knowledge, skills and experience necessary to implement this system of training, which is custom tailored to fit the owner's and dog's needs so they can achieve truly unbelievable results.

This state of the art system of training is the most effective system for teaching every type of dog, from a 6 week old puppy to our most advanced total control and protection courses for adult dogs. The Ohio State K-9 College system does it all!

A solid steel chain of interlocking links with rings at both ends. 

A leash is attached to one end and as it's jerked, the chain slides through the opposite end. This causes the choker to collapse round the dog's neck like a hangman's noose. A steel choker is preferred by most users because it can withstand repeated strong jerks without breaking. They're also made of nylon, cotton and other materials, however all choke collars have the same function: they choke the dog!

Why do you think it's called choker?

The choke collar is used on all types of training courses: obedience, behavior, protection, guard, attack, etc ...

The choke collar method of training is effective but a very painful way to train a dog. 

The choke collar method is actually crushing your dog's esophagus while cutting off the flow of blood and oxygen to their brain.

A collar that has a double row of 20 (or more) 2-inch long metal spikes with sharp points.

A chain runs through each end and is connected to one solid steel ring that is attached to the leash. Some trainers start their training by using a spike collar. The majority only use it as the next step up in progression pain, once the a dog becomes resistant to the low-level pain from the choke collar.

The spike collar delivers much more pain than a choker!

A correction is applied by forcefully jerking the leash. This causes all the spikes to be drawn inward simultaneously, collapsing against the dog's throat, which sinks the spikes deep into the sensitive nerves. Sometimes when jerking it turns in a circular motion, ripping hair and skin from the dog's neck.

The spike collar method is effective but an extremely painful way to train any dog. Dog Trainers that use this method usually justify it for the money.

Dog owners who use this method are usually just uninformed, which is where Ohio State K-9 College comes in. We think dog owners should know better, unfortunately many do not! However, after witnessing the interaction between our Master Trainer and their dog, our customers realizes how we continuously prove that the choke and spike collar methods are inappropriate and unnecessary.

Some dog owners (especially men) tell us that they thought physical domination is the appropriate way to train a dog, no mater which type they chose to use.

The spike collar method can permanently damage your dog's trachea, larynx or esophagus, even pinch a nerve causing temporary or permanent nerve damage. Worse yet, your dog could become completely paralyzed!

An electronic device on a collar that is battery operated and activated by a hand held remote control.

Just like a car battery, the shock collar has negative and positive posts called electrodes that touch the dog's skin for connection. For a correction, simply push a button to shock the dog. Instead of having to use both hands to jerk on a leash, like the choke or spike collar methods, the pain of the electric current running through the dog's body punishes them.

The people who use this method (except trainer's who do it for the money) normally have a lot of anger or frustration, therefore feel they have a justifiable reason, like an item costing thousands of dollars ruined. Imagine coming home from an evening out or a hard day's work and finding an item like this ruined. 

Wouldn't you rather avoid this situation by giving your dog the expert training they need, so they'll know how to behave even when you're not home?

The shock collar method really speaks for itself. Most people realize that this method is the ultimate of the 3 levels of pain.

Using treats for training your dog is not only wrong, it will create more PROBLEMS for you and your dog than all 3 pain methods combined.

A command is given and if obeyed the dog gets a treat, if not no treat. Sounds innocent enough doesn't it? In reality even with the best of intentions, you're teasing or bribing your dog. After giving a command with no results, you look into your dog's confused eyes and repeat it again but still no results. You keep repeating the command hoping and praying they will figure it out, meanwhile the dog keeps staring at the treat. Realizing the dog's frustration and understanding that they have no idea of what is wanted from them, many of us give in and give the treat. Not realizing that giving it will teach the dog they don't have to obey to get a treat. By giving the treat without the proper results we've confused them, if we don't give the treat we will have TEASED them. It's a no-win situation!

Now let's assume the dog obeys, they get a treat. All of us have seen a parent bribing a child, "If you do this, I will give you that." How will they get their child or dog to behave without a bribe? This BRIBING method doesn't teach what you really want, which is your dog's respect!

When the treat method is used in a group class or boarding school environment, their trainers like to call it positive reinforcement! Do any of the results look positive to you?

The treat method will teach your dog to acquire a craving for people-food or treats. When not given the dog will try and get them on their own, stealing them from kids' hands, off tables, floors, or even the garbage inside or out, etc... What the treat method creates is a sneak-thief or a dog that begs for food whenever possible (usually both) and a dog that can be easily poisoned by a criminal or accidentally. The treat method creates a dog that is not willing to perform for you without a treat. These are the results of an amateur trainer.

Only the voice is used to teach the dog to obey and respect the owner.

All reprimands are verbal. NO choking, spiking, shocking or treats are used.

We also use the praise method to balance our training, so the dog will enjoy learning and gain confidence in themselves and their relationship with the owner.

The Ohio State K-9 College prefers only the voice control method because it achieves the utmost RESPECT from the dog.

The other schools use one or more of the 4 worst methods!

The voice control method can achieve complete off leash control of your dog. No leash or collar needed.

A trainer teaches anywhere from a few to dozens of beginners; these people more than likely never handled or trained a dog.

They're instructed on how and when to choke, spike or shock their dog or teach them with treats.

Owners and dogs endure several weeks or months of chaotic group style classes. The trainer is trying to explain to everyone simultaneously, this causes dog owners and dogs to become confused and bewildered. Picture at each lesson a room full of dogs barking or growling at each other or at people; you hear frustrated owners trying to yell over the noise to give commands to their dog, which they don't know in the first place! While all this is happening the trainer will be trying to teach everyone how to correct their dog by choking, spiking or shocking. The treat method is not painful like the other methods but the results will be more damaging than all three pain methods combined.

Understand that dogs learn by conditioned association or repetition. Owners repeatedly choke, spike, shock or use treats to train their dog. With enough repetition the dogs will learn to associate the leash or collars to commands and will disobey when they're off.

Obviously the group style is the worst quality training. How could anything positive be accomplished in this environment? From the beginning to the end of each lesson mass confusion occurs, unlike the expert one-on-one style.

Combining a group of inexperienced students and untrained dogs in these conditions equals complete pandemonium, which can cause the owner to ruin their dog forever! Anyone who chooses the group style couldn't possibly understand the quality differences between the 3 styles before paying!

Dogs are left with complete strangers in a totally unfamiliar place.

They soon become afraid. They miss their owner and home which they have come to trust. While the owners are away, the trainers will choke, spike or shock them. The dogs won't understand why these people are causing them pain. The treat method is not painful like the other methods but the results will be more damaging than all three pain methods combined.

First we need to understand the methods and style a boarding school uses to know why they don't want the dog's owners there, while they are training their dog. They realize that most owners wouldn't leave their dog if they knew how they were going to be treated!

Second, we all know that we want our dog to obey us and not a stranger. We teach our children not to obey or talk to strangers and like our children, if our dogs obey just anyone, they also could be easily stolen or killed.

At best these trainers are only doing half the work. The owners are not being taught the proper method for handling since they're not going to be there.

Another aspect is the experience of the trainers. Any good business person knows that to make money you have to keep costs down and one of the highest costs in any industry is staff. The boarding schools keep costs down by hiring the cheapest staff. Obviously the person with no experience is the cheaper employee! The problem is that customers want to hear the lowest price! For these schools to be able to give the best price, they have to maintain cheap staffing.

Most boarding schools get paid two ways. The first way is by interns paying them thousands of dollars to get their experience by apprenticing; they experiment on the unaware dog owners' dog. The second way is when the unaware dog owners pay to leave their dogs for what they think will be an expert's training.

At first the boarding style sounds cheaper than the expert style. However they are only teaching the dog and not teaching the owner how to handle the dog. An expert will have to invest a lot more time and effort. For him to do what's right, the expert has to do 4 times the work! He has to use 1) the correct method 2) the best style 3) the most experienced trainer in this state, and 4) teach both the owner and dog!

My parents used to say, "If it sounds cheap, it probably is."

The quality you will end up with by using the boarding style: a dog you don't know how to handle, who has been emotionally traumatized by inexperienced people using the worst methods and styles on your dog... people who are literally practicing on your dog. This doesn't even equal one-fourth the quality and time of the proper training done by an expert trainer.

Like the old saying goes, "You get what you pay for."

Are you so angry or frustrated with your dog that you would pay strangers at a boarding school to do this to your dog? Or like most people, are you just unaware of the quality of training you will get from the methods and styles they use?

Due to the nature of it's highly individualized and customized training effects, the expert style achieves the best quality training with every lesson. Therefore, the dog and owner achieve the finest end results possible.

Unlike the group style, the expert style allows the trainer to focus on one dog and one person at a time!

Unlike the boarding style, the expert style teaches the dog to obey you, the owner, not the person who boarded the dog. The expert style teaches the dog and owner to work together. You give the commands and the dog learns to obey you, therefore gaining respect for you from your dog.    

Therefore, the expert style one-on-one is obviously the best style of all three.

None of the other schools have a complete system! Instead of answering your questions about their system, they talk about other things that sound important just to confuse you. Be careful; they are good at saying things, so as to make themselves sound like the best school! Remember these tricks are used in EVERY profession!

Most other schools even try to substitute the Ohio State K-9 College system; however, they only use one part of its (three components) the expert style, one-on-one. To hide the fact that they are copying our expert style, they instead call it "private lessons" which sounds awesome to a consumer who doesn't know about the (three) components in our state of the art system.

The best companies are always copied but never duplicated by sheer amateurs!

There is a huge difference in the experiences of dog trainers.

Anyone ... who can train a dog is a dog trainer.

Amateur dog trainer: one who has trained a few dogs for fun.

Semi-professional dog trainer: has trained a dozen or more usually for the purpose of trying to become a professional.

Professional dog trainer: a person who gets paid to train dogs, whether they're any good at it or not.

A person can be an average dog trainer in a year or two. However, to be an expert dog trainer, it takes many years. And even a person who has been training dogs for many years, but uses the worst methods cannot be considered an expert dog trainer.

Expert dog trainer: one with a complete knowledge of all methods and the skill to implement each, but uses only the best method. Only years of experience at using the best method will a person develop the accumulated skills and ability to consistently produce the best results with any dog with no negative side effects. Eventually, one develops the skills necessary to become an expert dog trainer.

Unlike other schools, the Ohio State K-9 College uses only a Master Trainer, a complete authority on the teaching of dogs and people.

However, the most important part of his job is teaching people how to handle and train their dog correctly, so that they can become the master. Why do you think he's called a Master Trainer?

Unlike a dog trainer, a Master Trainer has a complete knowledge of teaching people. In fact, he specializes in the creation of masters, so that owners become the master of their dog and can achieve the highest quality results with their dog.

However, when the expert style is combined with the voice control method and then implemented by a Master Trainer, spectacular results can be accomplished! By custom tailoring the training to fit the owner's and dog's needs, a master trainer can achieve truly unbelievable results. These (three) components, when used together becomes a state of the art system. It's the most effective system for teaching everything from basic commands to advanced training. This system does it all!

To become a Master Trainer typically takes 10 to 20 years or more studying people and dogs, learning how to most effectively teach them to become a working team.

What METHOD of training do they use?

Ask them if they use the choker collar for their OBEDIENCE training.

Most schools don’t like to tell you they use a choker collar, because that’s admitting they choke your dog, which will cause pain; that's why it's called a choker. They're so ashamed of what you'll think of them for using a choker on your dog, most schools won't even call it a choker when you ask them on the telephone. Instead, they prefer to call it a (training collar, slip collar, check collar or martingale collar); sometimes to avoid any lengthy discussion they'll just say "We use (conventional or traditional) training methods." However, these are all chokers with disguised names. Once you finally realize these are choker collars, then they down-play the fact that they are choking your dog by calling it a leash correction. Which is jerking a choker with the leash; they simply avoid using the word choker.

These are all deceptive sales techniques, used to trick consumers into coming in. Their final maneuver and gimmick is to tell you that they'll give your dog a free evaluation if you come in. Convincing you that you're getting something valuable for free, is their best bait and switch routine. However, they won't tell you that an evaluation is performed by jerking on the choker with the leash. This is why most schools won't let you watch them do an evaluation.

By admitting they use a choker, they know you probably won’t choose their school or leave your dog with them. It’s obvious to them that most customers don’t want their dog trained or evaluated by choking them. In addition, ask if they use spike collars or shock collars.

What STYLE of training do they use?

Remember the 3 styles: boarding, group, and expert. Find out which style they use.

As for the boarding style, since you have to leave your dog, you won't really know how they train your dog or if they mistreat them. In fact, they expect you to believe that by leaving your dog with strangers, you can come back and pick up a perfectly trained dog that will obey you. The boarding and group styles use an assembly-line type system, where all dogs are trained just one way and for a pre-set time. They focus on the number of dogs that they can run through their programs in the least amount of time. This is streamline training; is it right for your dog?

How much EXPERIENCE do they have?

How many years experience does the actual trainer have who will be training your dog?

Most schools claim their founder has many years of experience. He usually does. However, at most schools he is not the one who will be training your dog! They just advertise all of his years of experience to lure people in; this trick works on many gullible consumers! However, what good is he to you or your dog, since he won't be doing any of the work? Ask, and you will see that this is true at most schools. Their founder typically only manages or supervises; at some schools, he's only the director!

They don't like to discuss it, but at almost all schools, you and your dog get a different trainer every lesson. None of the schools like to admit it, but they use part-time help or volunteers; some even have interns! It's obvious why boarding schools try to encourage everyone to leave their dog there!

The assortment of people at boarding and group schools only add to the confusion, whether you leave your dog or NOT. Now multiply that by the torture from their methods, their amateur styles, plus their crippling inexperience! All of these things only cause extra physical or mental problems to your dog! This is such unnecessary suffering to put a dog through, by such inferior systems. And all in the name of profit!

The Ohio State K-9 College is one of the few schools in the world that employs ONLY one man, a true expert, a Master Trainer with 42+ years experience, using a state of the art system.

Who has the BEST QUALITY training?

Most other schools use low quality training methods and styles just about everywhere, performing them rapidly, like an assembly-line, without the expertise of a Master Trainer.

The group style...has the lowest price and the lowest quality training in the entire industry, where professional quality training isn't even considered important! This is where dogs are being experimented on like specimens, due to inexperienced amateurs, whose main goal is to save a few dollars. The most important issue here is quality; unfortunately, this is sacrificed at the expense of their dog.

The boarding style...has the medium quality training. You're paying for low-level skilled people, with very little or no experience. Often, this style uses part-time help, apprentices or volunteers, all of which are literally practicing on your dog!

Now you can understand why the group and boarding schools only want to quote their low prices, but never want to discuss the QUALITY of their training on the telephone and why they don't give a written lifetime guarantee! Obviously, it's because of the poor quality of their training! My parents taught me to judge a company by it's written guarantee, not by it's verbal promises.

The Expert... style is the highest quality training. When nothing but quality matters; you must have a trainer with the most experience. Choosing the wrong school can cost the dog its life; this is when price alone is not the most important factor. But quality definitely is! I think you'll realize then why parents always say, "You get what you pay for".

There is no imitation or substitute that is going to work when you need the very best. A lifetime commitment for you and your best friend; you can not cut a corner and settle for less than the best! This is when only a STATE OF THE ART SYSTEM will do.

Who quotes NON-NEGOTIABLE PRICES for PRE-SET COURSES?

Almost all schools have set prices for their courses for fixed lengths of time. Call and listen to their claims!

Example 1: a pet store offers 5 levels of obedience (puppy or adult) dog training that cost around $500 total, using the group style and treat method. Example 2: a boarding school offers 4 levels of obedience (adult) dog training that cost around $1350 total, using the boarding style and the choke, spike or shock method. Do you think these methods and styles will ever get the off leash obedience that you need for your dog?

Do you think they can possibly see the learning potential of you or your dog on the phone without ever meeting EITHER of you? Is it possible for any school to be able to figure the cost factors and give an accurate dollar quote on the telephone, without evaluating the owner and their dog? A system without a personal evaluation prevents any chance for achieving the best quality results. Only a seasoned veteran, such as an expert like myself, knows how to assess both and knows this can ONLY be done correctly in person. Only then can a master of his field be able to customize his system to perform for what best fits you and your pets' needs.

We sincerely prefer a potential customer who has spent time doing comparison-shopping. We want you to talk with some of the other schools first. Only then can you understand the QUALITY differences between Ohio State K-9 College and them. After you have the knowledge of how other schools operate, you truly will appreciate what our school has to offer.

Call us anytime and see if the first thing we discuss isn't the quality of the voice method, expert style, and working with the most experienced trainer in the state. We will discuss how the 3 components work together in the state of the art system and how they achieve spectacular end results.

It should be obvious to anyone why we're proud of our ability to achieve the best quality end results. We know that when we use the best method, style, and our Master Trainer's experience, we will get superior results over anyone and any school!

This is a soft dog with a very mild personality that frightens easily.

After being trained in a boarding or group class environment by someone hurting them with any of the three collars, the dog will be terrified of any interaction! Their ability to adjust to new situations and new people will be diminished forever because they are petrified. When the owner reaches out with the collar or leash, the dog will associate the collar and leash with the pain that comes from them; when given a chance, they're going to try to run. Experts call this avoidance learning. This is how a passive dog, when scared, learns to use their FLIGHT instinct to escape and avoid the corrections from happening.

The end results: the dog will run away anytime they see a chance to escape, or may bite out of fear when they cannot escape from what scares them ... not because they are aggressive but because they are scared.

This is a hard dog with a very strong personality that doesn't frighten easily.

After being trained in a boarding or group class environment by someone hurting them with any of the three collars, they can become very unpredictable with any interaction. When the dog sees someone reaching out with the collar or leash to put them on, they will remember the pain that comes from them, often they will try to run to avoid any correction. However, a dominant dog uses its FIGHT instinct to protect itself, over time they'll regain confidence and become even more fierce. Understand that this type of dog isn't reacting out of fear like the passive dog; eventually they'll make you draw back, thus avoiding any pain from happening to themselves.

The end results: the dog can become distrustful when unsure of ones' intentions and could viciously turn on a friend, neighbor or a neighbor's child. The dog's owner and family will be at risk when trying to correct them, especially when the dog is cornered with no chance to run or escape.

The most important goals of a Master Trainer is not just to train a dog basic obedience, behavior or housebreaking, but to completely stabilize the personality of the dog, which will require socialization training as well.

The amount of socialization needed will very greatly from a dog that attacks on command (police dog) to a dog that will defend your home (watch dog/guard dog) or even to a dog that will never bite (therapy dog). Obviously the master trainer will need to know the end results the owner desires before he will even be able to customize their courses!

Each dog in a litter has a different personality (alpha-omega) rank, which is established by play fighting with each other daily during the 6-8 weeks in their litter (pack).

No matter which rank they held in their litter, the master trainer's job is to get the dog to become a mature stable adult, which is only possible if he can work with the dog's owner until they fully understand the things they need to learn. However the level of balance and stability for each dog to develop their full potential can only be achieved if the dog's owner is properly working with their dog daily and in the correct manner that is most productive to their individual personality.

These goals will never be properly accomplished if the master trainer is not involved. He fully understands the personality of each dog in the litter and knows how to meet the individual needs of each, so they can reach full stability with their owner and family.

The end results: The outcome is a stable balanced dog that can be fully trusted in any situation. They fully understand what is expected of them and are more than willing to follow instructions (commands) given by their master. This is only possible when the 4 courses are taught and blended with a Master Trainer's experience. This creates not just a well trained dog but a happy dog that willingly wants to obey their master and is truly a pleasure to be around.

I have spent over 80 hours a week running this school all by myself for the past 42+ years to get this knowledge and have no regrets.

Your Commitment

The students who take the time to learn all the facts on our website, who are ready to learn and who are willing to do their homework are the type of students I want. If you are willing to commit yourself to these basic principles, I will go out of my way to help you. The first thing I ask of all my potential students is to demonstrate their commitment by taking my online test.

These are the kind of students that I am most proud to serve. I am more than happy to be their trainer and proud to have them on my team. I believe these students are as serious about their dogs, as I am at training them both to the best of my ability; these are the people that really bring out the best in me at teaching. I can honestly say, I truly love my job and serving these unique students.

As a leader in the dog training industry it is my commitment to improve upon the relationship between dog and owner through the power of knowledge on my website so that all people (not just my customers who call or come in) can know the truth from an expert, absolutely free.

EVALUATING THE DOG

I perform a professional evaluation on every dog in person, in order to obtain an accurate assessment of the dog’s specific needs.

After completing a series of tests, I will achieve a profile of your dog’s disposition, temperament and personality, which determines their learning skills or their true potential.

Without this testing, there's no way to determine the type of course the dog is capable of completing!

DISPOSITION

A dog’s direct responses to people or animals while they’re being socialized.

Conducting tests with people and animals are necessary to find out these social differences.

Some dogs are friendly; others show aggression when meeting people or animals.

TEMPERAMENT

The high and low range of a dog's behavior.

Some people call this the dog’s attitude. This is based on the dog's responses to different stimuli from people or animals.

To determine a dog's attitude, I perform what's called a sensitivity test, or doing things to the dog to bring out the ranges of their reactions. Some examples are ignoring the dog, being friendly, yelling, or making threatening gestures. All of these things are stimuli that determine exactly what the dog will do under certain circumstances. I must test a lot of different stimuli in order to find the extreme ranges of a dog's behavior. Some schools go as far as to use weapons on the dog, but I find it's only necessary to use the dogs' natural suspicions to learn their range of actions.

The way the dog reacts to these tests is the temperament.

PERSONALITY

The combination of disposition and temperament makes a dog’s personality.

To determine the basic personality of the 6-7 week old pup, I need to know what rank it held in the litter. Within 1-3 years of age, the personality is completely formed; the exact age depends not only on its rank, but also by how gently or cruelly it was raised. The socialization with people and dogs decide the total personality and the age when it reaches full development. You must also factor in that the domestic dog (more than any other animal) reflects some of the traits of its owner's personality.

I must know the personality of each dog to determine their true potential; only through evaluation testing is this possible. Like us, dogs have many different personalities, which means they learn at different levels. For example, some dogs require extensive repetition while others learn quickly. All dogs require periodic reinforcement before actually retaining what they’ve learned. Dogs use short-term and long-term memory. Long-term is used for habit patterns to be formed permanently so that the dog will not challenge any of what’s been taught. After the trainer completes a course, the owner’s work must continue. At this point, dogs are only using their short-term memory.

By practicing at home what has already been taught, the long-term memory is engaged and what has been learned goes into the dog’s lifelong memory banks.

EVALUATING THE OWNER

The capability of the handler is one of the most important parts of the whole process.

Everyone learns differently; sometimes, what works for one will not work for another! The owner must learn how to properly handle their dog. They will need a Master Trainer to achieve the one-on-one personalized training for both. This type of expertise is what you receive at my school. I teach the owner how to accurately handle their dog so they can bring out the best in their dog. In addition, people have different views of how they want their dog socialized.

I must see you both working together to determine the strengths and weaknesses of your working relationship. After this testing, we can discuss the type of course needed to achieve the correct training.

Now you understand why I MUST see you and your dog to do an evaluation to know the pertinent FACTS that are needed to give my assessment. Without the FACTS, it’s impossible to select a course and there is no way to quote a price on any course. All people and dogs are different; they will learn differently. Obviously, each will have to be evaluated for an accurate evaluation assessment.

There is no other way to know these answers either (Example...How long will each lesson be? How many lessons per week? How many weeks to complete a course)? Remember, time is money. I cannot know which course (s) will be needed on the telephone or by email, nor can I guess exactly how much time will be needed for both you and your dog. Remember, these TESTS can only be done in person!

In fact, a master of ANY profession cannot give their assessment on the phone or by email (or in person) until after a hands on diagnostic evaluation is performed in person.

An expert's assessment is a must, before any work can be done correctly!

No school offers our written warranty for the life of the dog & your training.

This is the most important part of EVERY master's field; it certainly is the main part of my entire process. Anything else is just plain guessing!

THE 3 MOST REQUESTED COURSES

A. OBEDIENCE COURSE: ( LEVEL 1 ) see below for advanced obedience levels...

The 5 basic commands used WORLDWIDE are: down, sit, come, heel, and stay.

Beginners and amateurs start at this level. Giving a command is a direct order that gains respect without causing any pain!

These are given by using a firm, commanding tone of voice that demands respect.

B. BEHAVIOR COURSE:

This course is to solve or prevent behavior problems.

Common bad behaviors: jumping, chewing, biting, digging, barking, ETC...

A dog may have only a few of these bad behaviors, however, most dogs have a dozen or more! A bad behavior is ANYTHING they do that you don't want them to do. It's something the dog does... not something you command them to do.

You wouldn't command your dog to do any bad behaviors!

C. HOUSEBREAKING COURSE:

The majority of people I talk to believe that housebreaking only teaches dogs where to relieve themselves.

To accomplish this, they just put the dog in a cage and take them outside at certain time intervals. They believe that after the dog makes enough mistakes and lies in it, the dog will eventually learn not to defecate in their own cage. Although cage training may work on some dogs, I've seen just as many dogs that it will not work on. Regardless, a cage will not housebreak any dog, no matter how long you use it or what size it is. Now, do you understand why most dogs running loose in an entire house will defecate without any type of correction? However, how come some dogs won't defecate in their own cage?

These un-educated dog owners tell me that the correction part of housebreaking a dog is easy. They just, "rub the dog’s face in it or hit them with their hand or a rolled up newspaper." Often, they do both and then they usually end up throwing their dog outside. This type of correction may or may not work when you are at home; it will definitely NOT work when you are not at home! Their friends and family think this is all cruel, but they never suggest another way; perhaps they don't know a better way themselves!

Pure force affects the general trust between the dog and the owner and often causes extreme behavior problems. For example, when someone reaches to simply pet this kind of dog, they may duck, cowl, growl or wet themselves, or may even bite! I’m not saying that some dogs won’t learn this way--but rather how much of the dog’s personality will be left intact! Cage training causes severe separation anxiety problems in almost all dogs. Visit any adoption agency or pet store and listen; you will see what I mean! Does any of this sound familiar to you? Do you want your dog trained the amateur way?

An expert never uses the amateur way to housebreak a dog. He uses a strict regimented system that consists of 12-18 specific steps. No trial and error, guessing and hoping for the best ... just knowledge acquired from 42+ years of experience in housebreaking dogs.

The above A (any level), B and C courses can be purchased separately or in any combination. Usually, customers don’t want to wait for the completion of one course before they can begin another. By waiting, the dog has time to learn many bad habits and destructive behaviors. For example, by waiting for course B or C or deciding that you don't need them, this could potentially do thousands of dollars in damage to your dog and/or property!

Teaching all 3 courses from the start prevents all of this damage from happening.

ADVANCED OBEDIENCE COURSES

WHISPER COMMANDS COURSE: ( LEVEL 2 )

Teach a dog to respond to commands when hearing your voice at a low level or whisper.

This is accomplished by teaching commands with only a whisper while the dog is near you and using a low voice level when the dog is at a further distance. At hundreds of feet away, your dog is only hearing your voice at a whisper level. In other words, the dog is taught to obey the low level or whisper at close range and then they will obey at distances; this gives you control of a dog at great distances.

This is possible because dogs hear 10 times greater than us. I consider it a must that all dogs should be taught my level 2 course because it achieves the highest level of voice training possible!

HAND COMMANDS COURSE: ( LEVEL 3 )

Do you remember your parents saying, "You better LOOK AT ME when I'm talking to you?"

Hand commands work exactly the same way with a dog; a dog must LOOK AT YOU in order to follow a hand command. Hand commands teach a dog to focus on your hand movements and what each movement means.

Hand commands represent the highest single level of respect that can be obtained because of the constant level of ATTENTION that the dog must be willing to give you.

The TOTAL CONTROL COURSE: ( LEVEL 4 )

All 3 levels combined: Gives maximum command control by utilizing all 5 senses!

To be cost effective, all 3 levels must be purchased from the start. I also offer them in progression, if requested. Regardless of which way you decide, you will want all 3 levels; this is the only way to tune and perfect all 5 senses!

Once all 3 levels are completed, you will have gained the maximum amount of command control from your dog that is possible.

PROTECTION COURSES

The MAIN PURPOSE for each of my protection courses is to be able to turn the dog's aggression OFF instantly when necessary. Whether the dog becomes aggressive naturally or has been trained to do so. The OFF command is absolutely necessary for every breed of dog: a persistent barker, a dog that chases and may bite or a dog that will bite. The OFF command stops all aggression immediately.

WATCH DOG COURSE:

The lowest level of protection. The dog is trained to bark to protect PROPERTY.

Most dogs learn to do this on their own if they haven't been overly socialized. If they have been too socialized, it deadens their wolf instincts that would've taken over to make them become a barker or growler. When this happens, most dogs won't bark at even a complete stranger. They'll lose their natural suspicion towards people. I see this quite often with friendly breeds, but normally, they can be re-trained. Courses are designed to DEFEND specific locations, such as indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles. To properly teach the dog, you must train them at each separate location.

A dog that barks is usually what MOST people want, especially a large breed.

GUARD DOG COURSE:

The guard dog will bark and bite if necessary to protect PROPERTY.

In the above watchdog course, the dog is not taught to bite. Most customers usually prefer both, while a few request only the bite. A guard dog is on duty 24-7. Like the watch dog, each course is taught at specific locations such as: indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles. A handler does not need to be present for this type of protection. It's used for DEFENDING for homes, hospitals, junkyards, car impoundment lots, country estates or mansions.

A dog that bites is what wants to protect with the ultimate level of protection for property.

PERSONAL PROTECTION COURSE:

The dog can be trained to bark, bite or both, to protect PEOPLE. (I do NOT teach a personal protection dog to bite on command)

This course brings out a dog's natural protective instincts; when they see a real threat to the owner, some dogs often bite to protect, especially an alpha dog. It’s a natural reflex to them, but this is still only DEFENSIVE training.

Warning: other dogs in a litter will also bite to defend their owners (especially the more dominate ones) without being trained or commanded to do so.

ATTACK DOG COURSE:

The dog is normally trained to bark and always bites on command.

Police, security, military, and/or bounty hunters use them for criminal apprehension; this course is used strictly for OFFENSIVE training.

Not all dogs can be effective taught the protection courses (especially the bite). These courses are most effective with dominant dogs, especially alpha dogs.

With each of the PROTECTION COURSES, I teach a OFF command for all aggression; the dog stops on the very first command. Most trainers call this the OUT command.

SPECIALIZED COURSES

POISON CONTROL COURSE:

This course prevents intentional or accidental poisoning.

This course is designed to teach a dog to never accept food/treat from a person's hand or wherever the dog is placed.

DEFIANCE COURSE:

This course teaches a dog intentionally NOT to obey anyone’s commands other than the dog's master or alternative persons.

Obviously, you want to be sure your dog does NOT obey complete strangers, especially a guard or attack dog.

The specialized courses should be combined with obedience and/or the protection courses.

CUSTOM COURSES

• Commands: upstairs, back seat, wait, go, quit, quiet, etc...
• Boundary: yard, kitchen, boat, etc...
• Fetch: professional fetch training
• Hunting: birds, ducks, rabbit, etc...